This page applies to the Pegasus, Arc-Light, Hypersonic, Mach 2, IntR/Ceptor, Spyplane and X-Plane kits only.
Converting to Electric Flight:
** Note if you plan on flying electric,you'll need to mount your speed control near the receiver but as far forward as is practical, and then balance the model for your electric setup and place your battery accordingly for balance. The battery should be mounted as far forward as needed to avoid needing extra nose weight. I use velcro to hold the battery in place and I've never had one come loose. Install the electric motor and balance your model. Remember your electric flight CG should be about 1/4" ahead of the rocket launch CG shown for initial flights, then you can move it back a bit at a time if you feel the model is sluggish in pitch response. If you set it up to fly as electric you will most likely not need to use much of the provided lead nose weight. The 800mah 3s eflite 25-35C battery will give you 4-5 minute flights and is not overly heavy/large at 2.3 ounces. Remember to disable your rocket boost/glide trim switch and/or aileron settings for electric flight so you don't accidentally enable these during flight. You will likely need a few clicks of up trim from neutral and aileron trim to counter the torque of the motor. Remember not to launch at much more than half throttle as these small wingspan models can torque roll very quickly if you use full throttle on hand launch. Put in a few clicks of up trim, set at about half throttle and give a good toss with the nose pointed up slightly. Be ready to react quickly and get some altitude, then you can trim for level flight. Since the motor is mounted in the rear, it is best to chop the throttle once you are sure you can reach the runway and do a dead stick landing to avoid damaging the prop. Just a gentle decent rate, avoid getting too slow, then flare slightly before touchdown.
One nice thing about flying these models with the adapter and electric motor, once you have set up your model and balanced it with your battery, you can then swap the adapter/motor/battery to any of the other models in a few seconds, hook up the wires and fly. You do not need to buy extra electric motors and adapters for every model. You can even hold the esc and wiring in place with velcro on your models and then you can swap your esc/wiring between models as well and you don't need to buy extras for each kit.
Remember, when you go back to rocket power, you will need to re-balance at the boost CG location using your rocket motor and re-set your trim positions.
For the Tube based Pegasus, Hypersonic, Valhalla and Arc-light the battery is velcrod on the bottom right side of the wing near the fuselage in a location to make the proper CG(1/4" to 5/16" ahead of the rocket CG) The ESC is velcrod to the top of the battery and there is a small hole through the fuselage to route the esc control wire to the receiver. The wiring is cut to just be the correct length and not hang loosely. I mount the battery/esc on the right hand side of the wing/fuse which helps counter the torque of the motor. For pusher flight you will need to run some up trim and some right trim most likely due to the torque of the motor. I needed about 5-7 clicks of up trim and 12 clicks of right trim on my Pegasus. Remember to remove these offsets when you fly it as a rocket plane. To fly as a rocket plane simply remove the adpater, battery, esc and unplug the esc from the receiver.
Extra Items needed for electric flight option:
Electric flight adapter(see home page for ordering)
apc 6x4E prop or Prop
Grayson hobbies microjet V-3 motor with 17-30amp speed control
800mah 3s battery lipo battery, 25c or better discharge rate
Radio Controlled Rocket Glider Kits