Radio Controlled Rocket Glider Kits
Apply fillets to the vertical stab and wing joints
Set the spar in place and apply more glue over the spar.
Cut the holes for the T nuts
Let the glue become tacky
Apply glue to the root edge and the front piece of the vertical stab and press into place, then pull apart.
Install the front and rear rail buttons
When the glue is tacky lay the wing flat to glue the joint
Install the two pushrods and horns, note the pushrod is closest to the fuselage.
Cut the wing slot
Glue the wing joint
Test fit the vertical stab
Apply glue to the spar and spar slot and let dry for a few minutes
Test fit the wing in the slot.
Orion Starliner Rocket Glider Kit
The Orion Starliner RC Rocket glider kit has the wing shape of the Orion III shuttle from 2001 A Space Odyssey, with an added vertical tail for stability. It comes with a plastic nose cone, 2" white tubing for the body and water resistant paper covered foam board wing and tail surfaces. Construction is very simple and takes about an hour and a half. The only hard part on this model is cutting the slot for the wing after you assemble the body tubes, however the slot locations are pre-marked for you. You will need two 10 gram type servos, two 6-12" servo extensions, a receiver, and a small 500mah single cell lipo battery. You will need a transmitter with delta or elevon mixing. You will need Bob Smith Foam Cure or Beacons Foam Tac glue for assembly.
Please refer to the notes on items needed for completion and flying, then read the instructions completely before starting assembly. The assembly photos are for general reference but may not include every step in the instructions. If you want hardcopy to work from, all you have to do is click/drag/select and copy all of the text below the photos, open word and paste with "keep original format" and it looks exactly like it does online then you can print it.
CG location for rocket flight: 8 7/8" forward of the rear end of the wing at the root. This will be approx 1" ahead of the joint between the two body tubes.
Welcome to the world of rocket boosted radio control gliders. This is not a model for a novice RC pilot, but anyone who is comfortable with RC flying of a medium speed model should be fine. Read through the instructions, look at the photos and be sure you understand the step before commiting to cutting or glue.
Orion Starliner Rocket glider instructions
Identify all pieces, the kit should contain:
1 wing taped together
1 Nose Cone
1 wing spar(carbon fiber)
1 vertical stabilizer
2 small foam strips for centering the motor mount.
2 control horns
2 Body Tubes
Velcro(for battery and rx/bec attachment)
2 Rail buttons with t nuts/screws or 1 Launch lug
2 landing skids
3M blenderm tape
Spare foam board(for testing paint, glue, and sanding the edges to see how it behaves)
Notes before starting:
You may use 220-320 grit sandpaper and a sanding block to slightly round the edges of the foam board if you prefer before gluing the wing and vertical stab in place. Do any sanding before assembly. It is suggested you use a thin coating of foam cure glue on all exposed foam edges before painting. This will help seal and prevent the paper covering from peeling.
Epoxy is not needed in this model. Weight is critical and the model is designed for the thrust and flight loads. Weight in the rear end is bad and will require additional weight in the front of the model. Epoxy may not stick to the paper foam covering. CA will melt the foam and foam safe ca will not stick to the paper covering so are not recommended.
This model uses a special water resistant paper coated foam board from flite-test. The paper covering is very slick and the only adhesive recommended for assembly of the wing to body is Bob Smith Foam Cure or beacons Foam tac. Hot glue will add too much weight. Foam Cure can be used two ways, like a contact cement, and like a normal glue. We will use it both ways. If you have a butt joint, you can apply the foam cure to both sides, touch them together, then separate them and let them dry for a minute or two till you can touch without sticking to your finger. Then you can press the two pieces together and they will be permanently bonded immediately. Or you can apply glue to one side and press the pieces together, or use it to apply a fillet. This will take time to cure and must be held or taped in place while it cures. The foam cure develops a skin quickly, so when applying to the wing edge or making a fillet, do one section at a time, wipe with your finger and immediately remove excess or strings with a paper towel.
The basic construction is now complete.
Note: Your radio needs to be configured for Delta mixing, this means that the servo arms will move the same direction during elevator stick movement and opposite for aileron stick movement. Connect your servos to the receiver one in the aileron connection and one on the elevator connection and apply power. Use a servo arm at least 9/16” long and with holes small enough that there won’t be slop with the pushrod wire when installed. I use the hole furthest out on the servo arm, to maximize movement. On some servos there are a long two-ended servo arm, you can trim off one end if needed to get sufficient length. Zero out any trim settings on the transmitter. The model once the motor has burned out is nose heavy and flying wings lose pitch authority when nose heavy so you want as much up elevator travel for trim/flare as possible.
Flying: See the Instruction/Information link at the top for flying instructions. Be ready on the first few flights to keep the model straight till you have the trims set perfectly for boost and glide.
Install the front skid
Join the two body tubes aligning the arrow marks.
Pull the servos back toward the rear and install them using the foam tac glue so that the control surfaces are neutral. The servos should be against the body tube with the control arm toward the wing tip.
Completed models with stickershock markings
Press the vertical stab into place
Install the motor mount
Tape over the spar and wing joint.
Install the rear skid
Cut the two slots to insert the servo wires toward the front and connect them to the receiver
Apply glue on the top prongs to lock the control horn in place.
Glue centering pieces onto the motor mount on the lines marked