Radio Controlled Rocket Glider Kits
Here are some plans for your personal use. Click on the picture to expand it, then click on the little link icon on the bottom right of the photo for a pdf download of the parts tracings. You can use the red links below to see the build thread on rcgroups that may help show how they go together. I have personally designed, built and flown all of these.
The Shuttle/Buran was designed specifically to be a rocket glider, you need to fit and install a 24mm rocket mount in the tail. I use a slightly tail heavy launch condition and slightly nose heavy glide and it works perfectly. I use a launch rail as it doesn't flex, if you use a rod, you would need a minimum 6' 1/4" rod to give proper liftoff speed. The Shuttle/Buran is a simplified generic shuttle design that you can add markings/details to make a US or russian shuttle. I leave the nose/cockpit up to the builder carve from solid blocks or stacked and glued pieces as desired. Mine came in at about 14.5 oz rtf and has flown on Aerotech E-12-RC, E-6RC, and E-15PW rocket motors.
The rest were designed for pusher electric motors. Their design yields simple, good looking models that have low wing loadings, have a very broad speed range and can fly in high winds. You will need to fit and install a motor mount for your motor, ply plate etc, and recess it as desired, just keeping in mind prop clearance. I typically don't use any thrust offset, and try to keep the thrustline as close to the fuse centerline or wing line as possible. In a few cases like the Phantom and B-58 that isn't possible due to the shape of the tail. The Grayson microjet v3 and an apc 6x4 with 800mah 3s is a good power setup. The B-58 will need a 30+ amp speed control and a larger 2100mah battery for ballast and power since it is a heavier model.
Reminder that these were scanned full size, but printers normally cannot print to the edges, and they will shrink the image and put some border around it, this will yield a smaller than original print and may cause mis-alignment, make sure you turn off page scaling in the printer before printing, and that there is no scaling or auto-expand or fill to the sheets and that you print without borders.
When cutting slots and tabs, it is better to cut the slots on the side with slots only, then overlay it on the other fuse side and mark the tabs and slots, that way you are sure they line up perfectly. The plans show what I did but it's better to rely on your cut pieces for perfect alignment.
Build light, I've included carbon where it is needed for flight loads. I use velcro to hold the RX and bec/esc in place, as it allows easy changing out if needed.I don't use clevis connectors, but use .039 music wire and Z bends that fit tightly and glue my servos in place. Less to fail or go wrong. there is zero slop and it is light and simple. If you have to splice your foam sheets, use blenderm tape on both sides to reinforce the joint if needed. I use great planes or dubro wing skids on the bottom of the fuse and this helps avoid landing damage. Please feel free to send me feedback on any issues or success you have. Note these were designed to use 6mm depron sheet which has the perfect combination of stiffness and light weight. This may mean you need to adjust slots for a different thickness or add more carbon to provide the right stiffness if you use a different type/thickness of foam.